It was an early start to be at briefing at 430 am. I left my Air B and B just as the first light of dawn was coming up heading down the hill in the slightly chilly air. At sign on I met an ex-pat called Simon riding a Raleigh with dura ace. We would ride together until the first rest stop. I also chatted to Matteo a burly Italian riding all of the Eroica routes we reminisced over the Eroica Dolomiti ride a couple of years ago.
Matteo gave a rousing speech and we were off in the early morning light at 5am on traffic free roads. Simon and I chatted together as we followed the river south passing rice paddies dotted along side the road. It became clear Simon was the stronger rider despite his jet lag (having returned from the UK the day before). So after the first climb, an off road step gravel track leading to a railway tunnel we became separated.
At the first rest stop I refuelled on energy drinks and a lovely cream cheese filled pancake. A local delicacy. I could have eaten a few of those but I was assured only one per rider was possibly in the politest way by the Eroica staff.
The road emerged alongside a huge gorge and then headed down to the valley floor along a helter skelter road system in the middle of the valley with far reaching views as I spiralled down towards the valley floor. Absolutely fabulous.
At this point I was joined by three Japanese riders riding at a pace that was comfortable. I was definitely one of the weaker riders amongst the group. After some gentle climbs and descents we headed towards the next rest stop at Shimoda. I had the choice to join the medium route but since Simon had assured me the extra bit was gently rolling up and downs I headed for the longer route.
At Shimoda we refuelled (no pancakes this time) and headed towards the Pacific Ocean. The road went up and down swooping past fishing villages nestled into coves and huge rocks out to sea the perfect hide away for James Bond villains. We were heading for the next rest stop at Irouzaki Light House. More delicious snacks this time a wafer green ball filled with a mint gel. I took some time to walk down to the light house. I probably lingered here a bit too long in hindsight as there were still plenty of clicks to cover.
The road seemed to climb and descended endlessly it seemed and I must have driven my Japanese companions nuts constantly asking for updates on how close to the lunch stop we were. We stopped at Matsuzaki “Monkey Island” for a quick selfie before hopping on our bikes and continuing on to the lunch stop. Lunch was superb a crocket with wasabi mayo and a Bento box with fried fish, rice and a Miso soup.
There I met an Australian called Andy doing the medium route and on his first Eroica. I decided to give my Japanese friends a break and Andrew and I would ride together. We had been warned that the next couple of climbs would be tough (three arrows on the map).
After following the river and pausing for a photo in a small village whose inhabitants had just visited the musical grocery van for provisions, we headed up their climb stopping a couple of times for a breather and a pit stop at an Onsen for a comfort break and the purchase of jam and custard filled sweat buns.
The next climb was brutal km after km of steep switch backs with no let up whatsoever. I was standing on my pedals and in my lowest gear. The tree line was ever distant. Waterfalls poured down the side of the mountain. We paused periodically for a breather. Andy told me to go on at my own pace. The road levelled out briefly as I neared the tree line and I stopped to admire the view across the valley as a Japanese rider arrived on a Bianchi. We took photos of each other and headed back on our bikes. As I neared the tree line I realised that above the trees the mountain continued on up with grass this time covering the tops of the mountains as if nothing else could survive at this height. The road levelled out at a T junction and the route went right up an 11% climb. By this point I was spent and so walked the steepist section hopping back on my bike for the descent to the rest stop at the beginning of the magnificent Nishima Pass. It was cold on top and so after Andrew arrived I apologised as I had to head on up the pass in order not to get a chill.
After a wonderful descent when I exceed 70Kph the road headed up and 8km climb in the fog. The Bianchi rider and I were both huffing and puffing are way up we stopped to check our whereabouts and to see how much climbing we had left. Only 3km to go. As we inched our way up the climb I was counting the km markers at the side of the road. Eventually another wicked descent to the next rest stop and a refuel. With the majority of the climbing now over it was a relief to be descending.
The road twisted its way down the other side and I locked both wheels narrowly avoiding a barrier at a 90 degree bend in the road that crept up on me without warning. Somehow I managed to get round without hitting the barrier. Fatigue was definitely creeping in. I almost did the same thing on another corner. Finally I could see the Ocean again as the road headed down through Orange groves. I was hanging on the breaker levers not wanting too much speed to build up. I coasted I to the final rest stop a cafe on the beach. Fresh Orange juice the likes of which I have never tasted and an orange pancake and then a delicious bowl of noodles and sea food from the food truck there.
There was no time to hang around as it was starting to get dark and I had no lights, only 8km of mostly flat roads along the coast back to Eroica HQ. Another couple of Japanese riders joined me as they had lights to shine the way. We cycled on busy roads and after crossing the river we lost our way a bit. I fired up Google maps and headed down a side road, the other riders shouted at me and in the dark I didn’t see a high curb which I smacked into and the bike slid beneath me scratching the paint and taking some skin off my leg. Blooded and exhausted I rolled into the Eroica village as the team were beginning their pack up. I was handed my goody bag of local,sweats and a leather wallet embossed with Eroica. I was the last of the long route to finish and therefore “The Last Samurai”
Spindle and Spoke 